Castles + palaces + forest = Sintra

June 15, 2017June 13, 2017Leave a comment

Letter 100

Sintra was a fairy tale and a place that is now very very high on my list to return to. As I was staying in Lisbon I took only a day trip here with a big group from the hostel and we had the most fantastic day. It was so great to get out into the countryside, do some walking and chill out in a beautiful setting. It blew me away and there is so much more I want to explore there. I would love to go back for a week or two.

The town

Sintra sprawls up into the forested hill heading to the castle and is a collage of brightly coloured unique buildings. The tight uphill cobbled streets contrast the wide open squares lined with restaurants and pastries. On a beautiful day like we had it really looked spectacular.

Walking to the Moorish Castle

The uphill walk through the shaded forest was very refreshing after walking under the blazing sun in cities. It was also great to do some exercise. You can get the bus up but the walk is well worth doing for the stunning views and little surprises along the way.

The Castle

This may be the most spectacular castle I’ve ever visited. The walls follow the contours of the land and allow for views across miles and miles of Portugal. We continuously got lost around the small stone rooms and coming to dead ends of plants. If you don’t mind many many steps then you’ll love it. I loved it.

Pena Palace

We walked to the palace through the park from the castle. The route is lovely and upon approaching the palace you will be speechless. I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many bright colours on one building. So many exquisite details, tiles and shapes. I would have loved to go inside but as a group we decided not to. Even so, we could walk around the whole building taking in the views of the surrounding countryside and the various parts of the palace. It was incredibly stunning.

Valley of the Lakes

We kind of came to this by accident. I was keen to head up to the viewpoint but everyone was tired and hot so we walked down to the town instead. On the way we passed this lovely collection of ‘lakes’ – I would call them ponds but whatever. It was very peaceful and the colours of the trees, plants and lakes were stunning. So very different to the beaches and cities I’d been surrounded in for the past few weeks.

Sintra was one of my favourite days of my trip so far. I loved getting to know lots of new people and enjoying the peace and quiet of the town and it’s countryside. I will 100% be returning because one day just is not enough.

Little side note – this is letter 100!! I began this blog over a year ago and I now have 100 posts about some of the great places I’ve been lucky enough to visit and some random things in between. Thanks for reading, I hope you’re enjoying my posts! I’m currently rounding off my month in Spain and Portugal and will be leaving for Budapest very shortly. I’m excited to start the next part of my summer! Stay tuned!

From Lou

About Me

13 reasons why … Lisbon was the best.

June 14, 2017June 12, 2017Leave a comment

Letter 99

Sometimes a place becomes special to you, not because of the city itself and the things you see, but because of the people you meet and the experiences you have with them. That’s Lisbon for me; it is a very special city. Here are 13 reasons why…

1 Friends

I suppose I should thank my hostel for the wonderful people I met during my stay in Lisbon. I made some extremely good friends who I know I’ll see again, and I also encountered people from countries across the world who I had great times with. I felt I was constantly busy spending time with people, chatting, relaxing, doing trips and seeing the wonderful city. How great is it to travel solo?!

2 Belting out songs in numerous languages in a Portuguese restaurant

I felt truly happy when sitting in a small restaurant on a sofa alongside an Aussie, German, Swiss and Canadian singing with a Portuguese woman who had tailored her songs after asking us our nationalities. We discovered this lovely little place, called Patio do Bairro, in the heights of Bairro Alto and hearing the live music we headed in for a drink. Turned out to be the best night of all of our trips so far. We tried and failed to sing Portuguese, even with lyrics, and then she began to sing English songs for us. She even threw in some French and Italian for us to have a go at. She was a wonderful singer and the whole atmosphere was made even better by the large local family celebrating a birthday. I felt so at home in this foreign but familiar country.

3 Graffiti gallery disguised as a car park

Within Lisboa Parking, a 6 storey car park hidden in the tangled city streets, are walls of colourful artwork from various artists. Not only this but on the top of the car park is a stunning viewpoint across the Lisbon, perfect for catching a sunset, as we did.

4 Local flea market

I love markets and go searching for them everywhere. We were told about this one by the guide and were not disappointed when we got there! It stretched for ages and people were buying all sorts. I managed to find some postcards written on decades ago – my favourite kind – and added to my foreign comics collection. It happens on Tuesday and Thursday and is located right next to the Panteao National. The market gave me a chance to work on my Portuguese skills, and realise that I have none.

5 Pastries all day

Portugal and pastries go hand in hand and made my stay in Lisbon even better. Pasteis de Nata is a custard tart, common in Portugal and essential in Lisbon. There are entire pastry shops dedicated to this tiny treat and I visited 3 of them. My favourite was Manteigaria located in Bairro Alto. I can’t even explain the taste explosion, but I quickly became addicted.

6 Terrifying tram ride

Trams are a symbol of Lisbon, the colourful carriages transporting people up and around the hills that the city is built on. Of course I had to use one before I left. Tram 28 runs between Praça do Martim Moniz and Bairro Alto and passes through many beautiful districts in Lisbon, lasting around 40 minutes. The reality of the ‘enjoyable’ tram ride is that aside from the 20 people seated, everyone else stands tenuously hanging on to anything in reach whilst the tram jolts it’s way around Lisbon, sending many flying forward. As one of the lucky seated people, it was hilarious. I swear the driver does it for a laugh. Maybe there’s just too many people on it, because on one particularly steep incline, the tram struggled and I was convinced we would slide straight back down. We also came across some Portuguese road rage. Quite right as the driver was on the wrong side of the road. It’s an experience to say the least, and I kind of loved it.

7 Watching a wedding photo shoot

I love weddings and especially being able to silently gatecrash someones photo shoot and watch them. We came across this couple in a park near the hostel called Miradouro do Parque Eduardo VII, which was a stunning area with a pop up book fair too. The location was perfect for the photos and they looked stunning.

8 BOWL of sangria

My friend and I were recommended a bar to go to for sangria. We were told that for €4 you get a very large amount of sangria, and we were not let down. After getting lost trying to get there, being offered drugs in the street and stumbling into the dark bar, clearly being the only tourists, we were pleasantly surprised. THE largest glasses I’ve ever seen and the sangria was very yummy. Very alcoholic. It took us a couple of hours of sipping and chatting and ended in us slightly foggy-eyed heading back to our hostel. We laughed so much and it was a great evening.

9 Horse parade in Belem

On disembarking my bus in Belem, after a bad nights sleep and stressful morning, I was greeted by a huge expanse of park leading to the water, a grand pearly monastery and a parade of horses and guards spanning between them. The whole scene instantly relaxed me and made me happy, partly because it reminded me of home. One of my favourite things to do in London is watch the changing of the guards, and this was just as exciting, and shared with far less people.

10 The whole city is an art gallery

You don’t have to walk far to find graffiti, and here it is celebrated. There are so many beautiful pieces around the city and getting lost and finding them is so much fun and the best way to see the true Lisboa.

11 The viewpoints are insane

There are so many places around the city to observe the buildings, plazas and parks spanning out below you. A little exercise will get you to some pretty impressive places not to be missed. You sometimes have to pinch yourself.

12 Dazzling colours and patterns

Most of the buildings are either coloured or tiled, the pavements are Portugal’s version of mosaics and the terracotta rooftops, blue sky and green parks combine to create a city full of colour and character. Each corner is unique and a walk is always eventful.

13 I met someone from my college

I never meet English people whilst travelling – don’t know why. So I was unbelievably surprised when the guide for my walking tour was indeed from home and we attended the same college, at the same time! It was so great meeting her and even better finding out about her job as a tour guide for the summer. What a coincidence. The walking tour was also one of the best I’ve ever done and we got so much advice about what to do in Lisbon. Many of the things on this list came from her. (The company offer many tours, free and paid, and is called Discover Lisbon.)

Lisbon for me was a whirlwind and I enjoyed every second. I loved the people I met and the amazing experiences we had together. Lisbon blew me away and I can’t wait for my day there next week. What a city.

From Lou

About Me

Relaxing on the Algarve

June 13, 2017June 13, 2017Leave a comment

Letter 98

After a few quick stops in cities it was time, once again, to slow down and relax for a while. I don’t like rushing around and only scraping the surface of a place, and luckily in Portugal I was able to stay in each place for a longer time, which I’ve enjoyed far more.

Lagos

This was the main part of the holiday where we stayed in a Portuguese lady’s beautiful house, lazed on the beach all day and ate great food. It’s always a nice break from hostel dorm rooms to stay in a private room with your own space and a familiar face. We stayed here for 4 days and even this wasn’t enough to soak up all Lagos has to offer. The pretty town is only the tip of the ice burg with this place, and the beaches are where the beauty really begins. The walk around the headline stopping off at numerous beaches is completely stunning. The rock formations, crystal clear water and sandy coves are postcard perfect. We tried a few of the beaches and our favourite was Praia do Camilo. I felt so relaxed in Lagos and loved our time in this stunning place. One thing not to be missed is the Ponta da Piedade which is reached on foot and contains rock formations, caves and grottos around emerald green water. I came here early in the morning when it was deserted and peaceful – absolutely perfect.

Faro

My trip in Portugal actually began in Faro where I met up with my friend from university. We stayed here for a couple of nights and then headed to Lagos. With pretty low expectations of Faro, I was pleasantly surprised. Although we found there really isn’t much to do in the town, it is very pretty to walk around and the harbour is lovely. We spent our only full day in Faro on Ilha Deserta, a deserted island 40 minutes away from the city by ferry. I had my doubts about how deserted this island would be, but it was honestly paradise. For a very long time we didn’t see one person. Complete bliss. On this island you can also reach the most southern point of Portugal by following the trail around it.

You really can’t beat the Algarve for beaches. Such a wonderful, relaxing stay which set me up perfectly for Lisbon (which I can’t wait to tell you all about!!).

From Lou

About Me

PS. The ‘hostel’ we stayed in was just wonderful and I would highly highly recommend. It’s private rooms in a house right in the centre of Lagos with access to a stunning kitchen, lounge and terrace. Complete perfection! Link here.

Finally… here’s us having a fab time on the only cloudy afternoon we had…

Photo Essay: colours of Spain

June 11, 2017June 10, 2017Leave a comment

Letter 97

I spent two weeks on the coast, in the countryside and in a couple of cities in southern Spain admiring everything about the country and its culture. Here I have put together some of my favourite photos of my colourful trip.

Red

Aqueduct, Nerja

Train, Nerja

Buildings and flowers, Malaga

Feria lights, Cordoba

Plaza de Espana, Sevilla

Orange

Sunrise, Nerja

Mezquita, Cordoba

Building, Sevilla

Orange tree, Sevilla

Yellow

Reflections in the town, Nerja

Cobbled street, Cordoba

Blossom carpet, Sevilla

Building, Sevilla

Green

View, Frigliana

Cathedral garden, Malaga

Garden, Cordoba

Park, Sevilla

Blue

Beach, Nerja

Crystal water, Nerja

Alcazar gardens, Cordoba

Plaza de Espana, Sevilla

Plaza de Espana, Sevilla

Purple and Pink

Blossom, Malaga

Blossom, Sevilla

Flowers, Nerja

White

Town, Nerja

Early sunset, Nerja

Uphill street, Frigliana

View, Cordoba

Cream

Plaza, Cordoba

Metropol Parasol, Sevilla

Black

Plaza de Espana at night, Sevilla

Spain was stunning and I became more infatuated with the country than I ever thought I would. I don’t think it’ll be long before I’m back.

An update on my trip: I left Spain nearly two weeks ago and have been travelling through Portugal. Letters to come on this but I am shamefully behind because, honestly, I’ve been too busy having an amazing time. Stay tuned for tales from the Algarve, Lisbon and Porto!

From Lou

About Me

PS. You can read full posts on the places I visited here:

Nerja in a nutshell | Malaga in pretty purple | Cordoba at it’s best | Happy Travels in Flamboyant Sevilla

Happy Travels in Flamboyant Sevilla

June 7, 2017June 7, 20173 Comments

Letter 96

Sevilla; the last and most wonderful city I visited in Spain. I felt I could stay here for weeks. Every minute detail exudes perfection and beauty and these combine to create a city that is different to every other and is such a pleasure to be in. It’s a city of colour, noise and decoration. 2 days was most certainly not enough and I will be going back. Not only did I love the city, I loved the whole experience I had. My hostel and the people I met there made my stay even better and showed me how great this kind of travel can be.

Arriving late after a day in Cordoba, I got settled into my hostel and went for a supermaket run to get food, my typical routine. I got myself a salad and chocolate for dinner and decided to stay in and catch up on some stuff on my laptop and chill. A mixture of wifi not working, a long skype call and chatting to people at the hostel meant I wasn’t productive at all, but I had a great evening. To recover from a couple of nights of little sleep I decided to have a long lie in (until 9 that is for me) and then grabbed the hostel breakfast which was pretty great. I had intended to go on the walking tour, but for some reason I missed it and so I set of on my own to explore. I’m now very glad I didn’t do the tour. I had the most wonderful day discovering the main tourist spots and hidden gems of Sevilla. I was out for the whole day and walked my feet into the ground, and quickly got the lay of the land in this charming city.

Plaza de Espana

Normally I’m not such a fan of the major touristy hotspots, but this place blew my mind. I didn’t know what to expect because I had done next to no research on Sevilla, but I honestly couldn’t believe how beautiful it was. Even just the approach to one corner of the monumental curving building you’re struck by the tiled railing and lamp posts showing sheer attention to detail and beauty. Then you begin to see the water curving around the plaza with the building and people rowing underneath the tiled bridges taking people to and from the building. The fountain in the centre produces a rainbow mist across the square and is circled by horses pulling carriages. The building itself is a complete triumph. In red brick it is a monument to architecture and every inch shows how much time and effort went into making it beautiful. There are even tributes to all of the Spanish cities along the bottom of the building which surprised me even more. It’s like a fairytale and one of my favourite places I’ve ever visited.

The River

Walking along the river is beautiful, especially at this time when there’s a carpet of petals below you. The views across to Triana, a small area of Sevilla, are lovely because of the multicoloured houses lining the river. You can also hop up to the Torre de Oro to get a lovely view over Sevilla and to learn a bit about the history.

Triana

This little neighbourhood is charming and well worth a walk through. I walked first down the main street and then along the river to get to a bridge further down that would meet up with Plaza de Espana. I saw a couple of really nice restaurants and if I went back I would spend more time here!

Unexpected Food Festival

Upon reaching the end of the bridge that I had intended to return me to the Plaza de Espana, I came across a food festival – that finished that day. The sun was shining, music blaring and Spanish families enjoying good food together. I thoroughly enjoyed sitting and people watching and only wish I’d known the festival was on before!

Parque de Maria Luisa

This is a tangled maze of paths, flowers and beautiful buildings. I walked around not expecting much and was pleasantly surprised with what I saw. This is where the archaeological museum is situated which I might have gone in with more time. There are also a lot of fruit trees – I know this because a wee fruit ended up on my head.

To complete my long day in Sevilla, I had sangria at the hostel with new friends and then we all went out to a beautiful tapas restaurant for a great night of food and drinks. Then, because we still weren’t done, we decided to head back to Plaza de Espana (the third time for me at this point) to see how it fairs at night. Well, it is just something else at night.

Real Alcazar de Sevilla

On my second and last day in Sevilla (not enough time at all) I headed first to the Palace. I went with a couple of girls from the hostel and went spent a lovely couple of hours wandering around the rooms and parts of the garden. Unfortunately the weather turned British so we stayed undercover for most of it. Like every other palace I’ve been in, it was beautiful with rich decorations and stunning gardens. Definitely worth going in, I spent longer than I thought here.

Metropol Parasol

An an architecture student I was really interested to go and visit this huge sculpture which doubles as a stunning viewpoint for the city of Sevilla. It’s slightly out of the centre but it reached through some lovely shopping streets and squares. The ticket to get to the walkway and viewpoint includes a drink and postcard as well so it’s worth the €3.

Catedral de Sevilla

I had one thing left on my list to do before I left Sevilla heading west to Portugal. As it brightened up I decided it was the perfect time to head to the cathedral and tower for the last look over this beauty of a city. The cathedral is a large (if not the largest – I don’t remember) Gothic masterpiece which towers over the city. The tower was interesting to walk up as it was a series of ramps, not stairs. However, the views on the way up and at the top were magnificent.

To me Sevilla was perfect. I loved the size, the architecture, the layout and the parks. I needed more time but I know I’ll return here. I hope I’ve convinced you to pay this gem a visit.

From Lou

Cordoba at it’s best

May 31, 2017May 31, 20171 Comment

Letter 95

In Cordoba, the month ‘May’ doesn’t exist. They have January, February, March, April and Cordoba. The city completely comes alive in May and I was very lucky to be there during the month of Cordoba.

For the last week of May, the Feria takes over Cordoba, bringing people from all over Spain and the world. There’s something to do for all ages and the whole event was wonderful to be a part of. My favourite part were the marquettes full of people eating, drinking and dancing flamenco to traditional and modern music. I could watch them dancing for hours, it’s so stunning! I found it fascinating that everybody knew exactly what to do, from toddlers to teenagers to adults. It seemed the whole of Cordoba descended on the Feria. There were amusement rides, live bands, food stalls and markets. It’s literally buzzing at all hours of the day. I met some great people at my hostel and we joined in the fun one evening, I loved it.

Flamenco dancing at the Feria

Back to the beginning though. I actually had no idea that the Feria was on, so luckily I booked my accommodation a few weeks back. I arrived late, good food at the supermarket, had a little stroll along the river and then got an early night. That walk was enough for me to know I’d love the city.

I only had 2 days in Cordoba so I wanted to get a good start on it on my first. By far the biggest attraction of Cordoba is the Mezquita, or Cathedral. This mosque come cathedral is famous all over the world and being inside such an incredible structure was spellbinding. It honestly might be my favourite building I’ve ever been inside. Every day it’s free between 8:30 and 9:30, otherwise it’s €10. I went early on both of my days in Cordoba to spend as much time enjoying it as possible. The photos don’t do it justice.

Whilst walking around the Mezquita, look carefully at the arches and you’ll see 4 stages of age in the mosque. The oldest are built using true white and red stones whereas the newest are fakes. They are only painted to give the same effect,

After the Mezquita I took a walk around what I later found out to be the Jewish Quater. My aim was to find some of Cordoba’s famous patios. That’s another reason May is renamed simply to Cordoba. During the first week of May there is the festival of Patios where people within the city open up their patios to be judged, and one is crowned winner for being the most beautiful. They work extremely hard tending their patios all year and I managed to get a glimpse of a couple that were left open.

I took a free walking tour that my hostel suggested and it was really great. I always find they are great to get your bearings in a new place and learn some of the history so you can understand what you’re seeing. This tour was particularly informative, the guide was lovely and I got to see pretty much all of the important parts of Cordoba, as the city is small enough to walk around in a few hours. The main places we visited were Plaza de las Tendillas, Plaza de la Corredera, Plaza del Potro, Mezquita and the Jewish Quater. I found the things she said about the Mezquita the most interesting, and one of the reasons I returned the next day for a closer look at what she spoke about. I also met a couple of guys on the tour and we went for lunch in Plaza de la Corredera which was great! For a main square it tends to be very quiet.

I then went on a long walk which tired me out to the point of dozing off on park benches around the city. I began by crossing the river to get a look at the Feria in daytime from a distance. It really is a spectacle, and the whole area is nice to walk around. Following the river I once again reached the Mezquita – you’ll always somehow end up here. Continuing around the riverside I eventually ended up at some lovely parks that head north. By this point I was knackered. I circled back to Plaza de las Tendillas and made my way back to the hostel through the winding streets of Cordoba. I ended the day with great people, the feria and wonderful views of a sparkling Cordoba.

I only had until about 3pm on my second day in Cordoba, but I made the most of it. I visited the Mezquita again and walked up the tower, went to a museum about the baths, wandered around the beautiful gardens of the Alcazar and went to an art gallery about Julio Romero. It was all chilled and very interesting. I also got great student discount on everything!

Cordoba had me from the second I set foot off the bus. It’s a city of culture, history and ancient beauty and I only wish I could’ve spent longer exploring the many streets that connect to form the maze of old town. I definitely recommend visiting, and please, go in the month of Cordoba.

From Lou

About Me

Malaga in pretty purple

May 26, 2017May 25, 20173 Comments

Letter 94

I’ve had a short but very sweet stay in Malaga and it has left me with a list of things to go back and see and do. The city almost convinced me to extend my stay here, cutting short Cordoba, but after hearing such great things about my next stop I decided to stick with my plan. Besides, I’ll return to Malaga for sure. For now, enjoy my account of 24 hours in Malaga.

The first thing I noticed about the city was the colour. Every inch of it screams vibrant shades of oranges, yellows, blues and even purple – hence the title of this letter. I was lucky enough to be in Malaga to witness the trees blossoming in bright purple and littering their petals all over the parks and plazas of Malaga. Apparently this only happens for a couple of weeks in May so I was lucky to see it. The buildings in the centre are dressed in beautifully coloured facades encouraging you to wander the tiny alleys and vast avenues. Notable places to visit to see these stunning colours are in Plaza de la Merced, outside the front of the Cathedral, Plaza de la Constitucion and around the Picasso Museum. You may even spot murals, mosaics and graffiti around the city, brightening it up even more. I felt very joyful walking around the streets and plazas of Malaga.

Coming into Malaga on the bus from Nerja, we passed the port. This is a huge spectacle in Malaga and where all of the cruise ships arrive and tourists are welcomed to the city. It’s only a few minutes walk from the centre and is worth a visit – even if you’re not travelling by cruise ship. It’s lined with a long park with tropical trees, shaded benches and small cafes and shops. You’ll also find a line of market-like stalls selling traditional clothing, paintings and souvenirs. I found this to be busy with locals rather than tourists, but I’m unsure if it’s a permanent fixture. Whilst wandering through I came across a stage where flamenco dancers were performing and a crowd of Spanish couples and families enjoying the show. It was entirely in Spanish so I could only understand a limited amount, but everyone seemed to be having a great time. I have been told that the port is really spectacular at night when all of the lights are reflected on the water, but I didn’t have enough time to see this.

In addition to the port gardens, there are other green spaces around the city. I went north of my hostel (mainly to get to the mercadona – my favourite Spanish supermarket) and found a lovely spot called Parque Canino San Miguel which I sat in to eat. It was laced in the purple blossom and filled with locals walking their dogs and kids playing. You can also find potted plants all over the city, adding to the grandeur of many of the streets. Even some of the bars and restaurants have thier own gardens. We were taken to a bar/restaurant called El Pimpi on the walking tour and were able to take a walk through their private courtyards covered in plants. They take their inspiration from the courtyards of Cordoba, so I can’t wait to see them tomorrow.

I learnt a lot about Muslim Malaga on the walking tour I went on and it makes visiting some of the key sights far more interesting. In fact, the Christian Cathedral of the city was originally the main mosque, but when the main religion returned to Christianity, it was extended and built up to form the present cathedral. Another interesting thing is that it’s not finished, and probably never will be. There is only one tower and the centre piece is missing. It’s also a must to go and visit the Castillo Gibralfaro which was a Muslim fortress. There are two and the top one is said to have incredible views across the city. Below these is the Roman Theatre which is quite a sight and when we were passing there was a class of children sat around it rehearsing a song.

One stop that most people make is to walk around the streets that once housed Picasso. They are really beautiful in themselves and also interesting to look up at the windows that he once looked up at. There is also the museum of Picasso which I would have loved to go to. He even appears in Plaza de la Merced as a statue on a bench, a popular photo for tourists I believe.

The walking tour I went on was with Explore Malaga (link to website). I was told about it by my hostel and I would highly recommend it. There’s no need to make a reservation, you just turn up at Constitution square. The guide was very informative and took us to all of the main spots in central Malaga.

The hostel I stayed in for only one night was Patio 19. I thought the hostel was really great. Very authentic, perfect location and lovely breakfast served in a beautiful indoor patio (hence the name). It was also very affordable and I would stay again. Link to page on hostelworld here.

All in all I thought Malaga was great. It felt like a very liveable, friendly city and very easy to get around by foot. I could easily spend a week or two there because there is so much to do and even beaches to spend lazy days on. I’ll be back Malaga!!

From Lou

About Me

PS. Here’s a photo of me that a very nice Spanish man insisted on taking…