Complete Croatia Itinerary and Costs Revealed!

Letter 123

After spending just over 3 weeks of my summer travelling around Croatia, visiting 10 different places, I feel I can shed some light on how much Croatia will set you back. From accommodation to travel and activities to food, I’ve got you covered!

 

TOTAL SPENT: £810.76

 

Brief Summary

  • Average per week = £246.75
  • Average per day (23 nights) = £35.25
    • Minus anomalies of Plitvice and Dubrovnik (we’ll get to why later) = £32.25
  • Average accommodation price = £14.74

 

QUICK TIPS:

Go before the national parks increase their prices for tourists

  • I went to Plitvice at the end of June and it cost 80kn (approx. £10)
  • I went to Krka at the beginning of July and it cost 110kn (£13.75)

Stay in the non-touristy cities like Sibenik (one of my favourite places) which is way cheaper than the likes of Split and is only an hour away.

Try to avoid festivals where accommodation will sell out (or time it right and embrace them)

  • I went to INmusic festival in Zagreb on a whim and it was amazing! It was super cheap as well (I haven’t actually added it into the costs here but I spent a total of £90 at the festival including the ticket for 3 days and all food and drink there)

Strategically plan what time to get a bus based on where the sun will be and the view you want (sounds silly I know)

  • Croatia’s coast faces west and is stunning so planning a bus before mid afternoon hits and the sun starts to sit means you can sit by the window looking out at the sea and islands without cooking alive
  • Also make sure you have extra change for getting on the bus because they charge extra for your bags (normally between 8 and 10 kuna)

 

Itinerary

Croatia route

  • Budapest, Hungary
  • Zagreb – 4 nights
  • Plitvice Lakes – 1 night
  • Pula – 4 nights
  • Rovinj – 2 nights
  • Zadar – 3 nights
  • Sibenik – 3 nights
  • Split – 1 day
  • Brac – 2 nights
  • Korcula – 2 nights
  • Dubrovnik – 2 nights
  • Kotor, Montenegro

You can probably tell I began to run out of time towards the end, as I was desperate for a long time in Montenegro, so my relaxed 3 or 4 night stays in each place became 2 nights. Even so I feel I had a good amount of time in each place.

If you wish to stop reading here then I will summarise quickly before going into detail. Croatia is a pretty pricey country compared to neighbouring Balkan beauties. However, it’s well worth it and you can find cheap parts too. Food can be pretty cheap from local bakeries and supermarkets but eating out is quite expensive – I only ate out a handful of times. Get yourself a hostel with a kitchen (or a wonderful host who cooks for you – see my Brac Island post here). Buses are pretty easy and efficient, just buy your ticket at the bus station, most journeys are very frequent and cheap too. Don’t overlook the capital even though it’s inland as it has a lot to offer! Spend time in the cities, national parks, beaches and islands – this country is surprisingly vast!

 

Now for the details…

 

Zagreb

4 nights = £150.70

  • Accommodation: Mali Mrak Hostel £44 (dorm bed)
    • Amazing place – couldn’t recommend enough! A little out of the centre, very quiet, great vibe and perfect hosts!
    • Hostelworld Link
  • Transport £32 (bus from Budapest)
    • Local trams are efficient and cost barely anything (I believe about 50p per journey)
  • Food £56.32
    • Mostly supermarket but I did eat out and try some of the local food
    • My favourite restaurant here was Heritage which is a Croatian street food place with insane food – here’s a link to the google maps location of it. I paid about £6 for a few tapas style dishes and a drink.
  • Activities £7.50
    • This doesn’t include the festival – ticket was about £55 for 3 days I believe
    • I went to the Museum of Broken Relationships which I loved and also did an amazing walking tour.
  • Other £10.88

I thought Zagreb was great and still can’t understand why people don’t like it or decide to skip it. It’s definitely cheaper than the coastal cities and has character in abundance as well as friendly people and a random lake. I honestly really enjoyed it.

zagreb 4

Plitvice Lakes

1 night = £60.88

  • Accommodation: Villa Jezerka Hostel £15 (for half a double room – I was with my boyfriend)
    • Great hostel – not the best looking but was what we needed. Easy to find and the owner is great and even took us to the park early in the morning so we would beat the crowds – which is highly recommended.
    • Hostelworld Link
  • Transport £10
    • Bus from Zagreb which was about 2 and a half hours long
    • They are quite frequent, ours was at about 11am – you can do Plitvice in a day from Zagreb (or Zadar/Split) but you do arrive at the park at about 11am which is when it’s super busy. By staying over you can enjoy the park quiet in the morning.
  • Food £25
    • We splashed out a bit and had a few really nice meals. Eating within the park isn’t as expensive as we thought and as we didn’t have a chance to get food before we didn’t really have a choice.
  • Activities £10
    • Entrance to the park – as I mentioned earlier – is cheaper before July hits.
  • Other £0.88

I loved staying here and getting away from the city bustle. Definitely a good stop off and the national park is as stunning as you would expect – worth it 100%.

plitvice 1

Pula

4 nights = £105.25

  • Accommodation: Airbnb £52 (for half of an apartment – with access to a pool!)
    • If you’re in a couple definitely go for an airbnb – you can get a lot for your money!
    • Airbnb link
  • Transport £18.75
    • Bus from Plitvice where you have to change in Karlovac.
    • We also got a bus to a national park in the south – not reliable at all, be warned.
  • Food £34.50
    • We spent barely anything on food – it is much cheaper when you’re sharing with someone else. Mostly ate in but did have a few treats out for lunch or dinner.

Pula was probably my least favourite city in Croatia however I had a great time relaxing at my airbnb with a pool and venturing out to a national park called Kamenjak. It’s still a cool city but you only need about half a day to see it all so plan other things to do in the region!

BUDAPEST, ZAGREB, PLITVICE AND PULA

pula 2

 

Rovinj

2 nights = £67.63

  • Accommodation: Roundabout Hostel £42 (dorm bed)
    • Interesting hostel – not the best I’ve stayed in but it is the only one in Rovinj so you don’t really have much choice. Also it was the most I paid in Croatia!
    • Hostelworld Link
  • Transport £4.50
    • Bus from Pula – very cheap and quick, could be done as a day trip
  • Food £16.88
    • I ate supermarket food and bakery treats which is quite cheap
  • Other £4.25

Rovinj is beautiful and still quite untouched by tourists so is very much worth a visit. Not a cheap place because of accommodation but 2 days is plenty here and you will fall in love with it. I happened to also run into a salsa festival here which is so much fun!

Romantic Rovinj

rovinj sunset 1

 

Zadar

3 nights = £101.13

  • Accommodation: Lazy Monkey Hostel £48 (dorm bed)
    • This is a super cool hostel a little walk away from the centre right by the beach and port. It’s a great place to stay with such a cool vibe and good people.
    • Hostelworld Link
  • Transport £35.13
    • The bus from Rovinj was pricey because you have to change in Rijeka and it takes about 5 hours in total from what I remember. It’s such a stunning route though!
    • I also took a boat over to Ugljan Island which was stunning and pretty cheap
  • Food £16.88
    • More supermarket food! I cooked a few times with people at the hostel and also ate out at a beach shack down the road which was super cheap
  • Other £1.13

Zadar is a place you can’t miss! It’s such a great city and you also must get over to one of the islands as they are paradise! Lots of backpackers come here so you’ll also meet people.

Zadar: hiking to an abandoned fortress

zadar town 1

 

Sibenik

3 nights = £101.88

  • Accommodation: Hostel Globo £36 (dorm bed)
    • This is a good simple hostel where I happened to bag a whole dorm of 8 for myself! I liked the staff and the location couldn’t be better!
    • Hostelworld Link
  • Transport £11.63
    • The bus from Zadar was cheap and quick
    • I got a local bus to Krka national park which was cheap but not reliable!! Waited absolutely ages for a bus on the way back but I had good pals to chat to in the sun so I wasn’t fussed
  • Food £27.88
    • As the hostel was super cheap I did pick up dinner every night from the takeaway which sold the best falafel wrap ever! Treat yourself right? Otherwise I ate from the local market and supermarket.
  • Activities £17.50
    • The bulk of my spending here went to Krka national park which is well worth it (but not quite as good as Plitvice in my opinion).
    • I also visited a couple of fortresses in the city which were incredible!
  • Other £8.88

I can’t praise this little city enough – I loved it. It was hands down one of my favourites for its cobbled street charm and stunning views and sunsets. Don’t skip it!

Side note – I didn’t stay in Split but I did stop off for the day after Sibenik (it’s only an hour on the bus) before going to stay on Brac island. You can easily do Split from Sibenik and it’s so much cheaper to stay here. In my opinion Split doesn’t need longer than a day.

The most underrated Croatian city: Šibenik

Krka or Plitvice?

sibenik town 6

krka walk 1

 

Brac

2 nights = £60.06

  • Accommodation: Central Studio Apartments £30 (dorm bed)
    • This place is special, mainly because of the lovely family that own it. I loved the location, dorm room, outdoor kitchen and views. It was wonderful and quiet.
    • Booking.com Link
  • Transport £17
    • The ferry over from Split wasn’t too expensive and only takes 50 minutes so it’s a very doable day trip!
    • I got a bus across the island from Supetar to Bol (where the famous beach is) as this was where I got a katamaran to Korcula.
  • Food £7.25
    • I spent so little on food as I bought everything from the supermarket and the family at the hostel cooked for me one night which was wonderful! Got some homemade Borek and lots of lovely treats.
  • Other £5.82

Brac is such a beautiful island with stunning beaches and so much to do. If it was cooler I would’ve hiked the hill/mountain – highest point of all the islands. I would definitely come back for a holiday here!

brac supetar 2

Korcula

2 nights = £60.38

  • Accommodation: Hostel Caenazzo 2 £30 (dorm bed)
    • This was a slightly dodgey hostel but still not bad. It’s location was perfect and it had what I needed.
    • Hostelworld Link
  • Transport £15
    • The Katamaran from Brac was slightly expensive but not too bad considering it was the only way to get here and there was only 1 per day I believe.
  • Food £11.63
    • Once again – supermarket food! Combined with the daily borek of course.
  • Other £3.75

Korcula was pretty, but for me not as good as Brac. I feel I could’ve skipped it, but the town was nice. If you want to relax somewhere where there’s not that much to do then it’s a good place. It would’ve been better if I’d had a car to be fair.

Island escapes: Brač and Korčula

korcula 7

 

Dubrovnik

ie. The city that sucks your money up.

2 nights = £102.88

  • Accommodation: Youth Hostel £42 (dorm bed – with breakfast)
    • This was THE cheapest hostel in Dubrovnik and to be honest wasn’t bad. It was about a 25 minute (beautiful) walk to the old town which I didn’t mind, it was quite near the port and the beach and you get free breakfast so I was a happy bunny.
    • Hostelworld Link
  • Transport £15
    • The Katamaran was the same as from Brac to Korcula which is efficient and reasonably priced.
  • Food £20.63
    • Eating out in Dubrovnik is not cheap, so I didn’t really do it. I bought a few beers, went to nice bakeries and tried not to spend too much. If you eat out in this city you’ll spend a fortune.
  • Activities £21.75
    • This was quite a portion of the money which I spend on walking on the walls – amazing and only ‘cheap’ for me because I had the right student card (ISIC) and also going over to Lokrum island which was stunning and worth it.
  • Other £4

I had mixed feelings about Dubrovnik. It was beautiful and amazing and a seriously cool place. But it was also packed with tourists, very ‘game of thrones-y’ and extremely expensive. I’m glad I went but it’s not a place I would return to unless it was for a day trip. I did get a firework display on the beach which was pretty amazing.

The many highs and few lows of Dubrovnik

dubrovnik old town 3

 

So that’s it! All of the costs you could need to know about in Croatia and my lengthy itinerary. It’s an awesome country and I’ll remember my trip fondly.

Anyway questions, feel free to ask!

From Lou

About Me

PS.

While the average daily spend for this trip was £35.25 (or £32.25 when you remove the anomalies of Plitvice (at £60 for 1 night) and Dubrovnik (at £100 for 2 nights)), I didn’t actually spend this each day:

  • Over the trip I spent £159 on transport, typically travelling between places every 2, 3 or 4 days
  • Therefore, without transport, I spent £651.
  • That works out to £28 per day including accommodation.
  • I’ve said in a previous letter (about travelling in Andalucia here) that to calculate a budget I work out a rough average for accommodation (I stated earlier that it is about £15 per night) then double it for an average daily budget.
  • This would give me a daily budget of £30 which I stuck to for the trip and then needed extra for transport.
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Looking back on 2017

Letter 119

What a year 2017 has been! I would go as far as to say it has been the best year of my life, but I’m looking forward to 2018 even more. In this letter I’ll recap 2017 the best way I can and look back over my favourite letters.

Letter 56

The year began in the best way possible – travelling. I visited one of the most fascinating countries I’ve ever been to and enjoyed it more than I ever thought I would. Iceland. Land of fire and ice – and boy was it incredible. While it is an extortionate country to travel in, I managed a week for £538 including everything, which you can read about here. We based ourselves in the cityof Reykjavik for the week but ventured out every day on trips which took us around the Golden Circle, to the middle of nowhere to see the Northern lights, to the Blue Lagoon (at night), to a frozen botanical garden, to an outdoor swimming pool and to beautiful parts of the colourful capital. Check out all of my Iceland posts here.

Letter 73

In February I was lucky enough to combine my course with my love and spent 10 days in beautiful ItalyIn that time I visited Rome, for the second time, Turin and Milan. I loved the diversity between these cities and leisurely enjoyed architecture, food and sun. What a wonderful way to escape Scottish winter?! You can check out all of my letters about Italy here.

Letter 85

March was a month I actually really enjoyed as spring had finally sprung in Edinburgh and I spent a lot of time out enjoying my city. I visited the botanic gardens, walked the various hills and enjoyed relaxing in the sun that had been hiding for a few months. Who says you can’t travel at home? I wrote a few random letters in March – check them out here.

Letter 89

In April I did a little more travelling around the UK as my birthday came about which included visiting my best friend in Cardiff and spending the night up in Fife, north of Edinburgh. Amidst all of my uni work it was good to take some solid time out. I also celebrated 1 year of aletterfromlou!! I honestly thought I would’ve had more letters by this point but alas, I’m proud of what I achieved. April was also when I booked my first fight of the summer – the beginning of my biggest adventure! Check out my April updates here.

Letter 95

May saw the completion of my second year of university and my summer trip begin. I spent the last 2 weeks of May in Spain, 1 with my boyfriend relaxing in Nerja, the second exploring Malaga, Cordoba and Sevilla on my own. I love Spain and my Spanish definitely started to improve! If you’re interested you can check out either my May letters here or those about Spain here.

Letter 99

June was busy. I spent a few days holidaying in Portugal on the Algarve with one of my friends, followed by a few days in Lisbon on my own before meeting up with my mum in Porto for a week’s holiday. I then flew over to Budapest to meet my boyfriend, spend a couple of days there, and then travel down to Zagreb in Croatia. I then spontaneously decided to go to the music festival with some people I met and had the best time. My boyfriend and I then headed to the beautiful spot of the Plitvice Lakes and it was stunning. Afterwards, we continued on to Pula in northern Croatia for our last days of holiday. When he left I embarked on my 4 week solo trip to round off the summer. What a busy month June was?! Check out all of the letters: Portugal, Budapest & Croatia.

Letter 104

July was a month of beaches, old towns, hiking, islands, new friends and smiles. I loved this month as it saw me travel down the coast of Croatia and spend 2 weeks in Montenegro, now my favourite country. I had the most incredible time and loved getting to travel without planning in advance and changing things at the drop of a hat. What an amazing month. Check out letters about Croatia here and Montenegro here.

Letter 109

August puts up a fight for the toughest month of the year, but also one of the most fun. I worked Edinburgh’s Fringe Festival at an awesome lego exhibition and was incredibly proud of the work I did. It was long hours and stressful days in a packed city but it was worth it. What a great thing to do!

20170828_173706

Letter 111

I’m going to roll September, October and November into one here because I actually don’t have any posts on these months – because I did very little other than uni work. However, as usual, I still spent time exploring my city but didn’t have time to write about it. I also went to Loch Lomond for a weekend which was stunning – but no time so here’s a quite picture anyway!

loch lomond

Letter 118

Although the last few months of 2018 may have been somewhat ‘cloudy’ I did finish on a high note in December. I flew over to Berlin for a few days to see my friend who’s now living there and had the best time. I stepped straight back into travel mode and loved every second. What a fantastic city and I can’t wait to explore more of the country – hopefully in 2018! I then spent time with my family, friends and boyfriend over the Christmas period, cherishing relaxation time before heading back up to hell uni.

berlin east side gallery 1

Thank you 2017. It’s been a great year, especially for travel. I visited Iceland, Italy, Spain, Portugal, Hungary, Croatia, Montenegro and Germany. Quite the list! I can’t wait to see what 2018 brings, I have a feeling it will be a good year.

Happy New Year folks! I wish you all the best.

From Lou

About Me

 

 

Photo Essay: Sunsets of Summer 2017

Letter 116

Whoever said sunsets all look the same are stupid. This letter will present some of my favourite photos from Spain, Portugal, Croatia and Montenegro – that happen to be a varied array of sunsets. Enjoy.

 

rovinj sunset 2

Rovinj

kotor monastery 4

Kotor

montenegro beach sunset
Bar

Thanks for reading.

From Lou

About Me

 

The many highs and few lows of Dubrovnik

Letter 110

Finally made it to my last stop in Croatia. 3 weeks in the country culminated with this remarkable city and it was actually a pretty perfect end to this part of my trip.

Dubrovnik was big, beautiful and busy. The old town is something special with yet more cobbled steep streets, stone buildings and surrounded by the famous city walls. Walking on the walls is, like everything else here, very expensive, but not for students. Specifically, students with one of the student cards they are willing to accept. This brought the price down from 150kn to 50kn (£19 to £6) so I didn’t mind paying. I therefore had a glorious walk above Dubrovnik’s old town in the evening light and the views were truly magnificent. It’s a really nice thing to do, but I wouldn’t have paid nearly £20 to do it. The ancient walls were a definite high (quite literally) of my stay in this remarkable city and it was a good start to my short time there.

dubrovnik walls 1dubrovnik walls 2dubrovnik walls 3dubrovnik walls 4dubrovnik walls 5dubrovnik walls 6dubrovnik walls 7dubrovnik walls 8

I finished off the evening in search of the perfect place to watch the sun setting over the city. I didn’t find it. I was aiming for a park that I never found and instead ended up approximately 20m below it on a winding road around the cliffs. Although I didn’t get where I intended to, I did see a beautiful sunset, made friends with many cats and saw some lovely views. Sometimes unintended is better.

dubrovnik sunset 1dubrovnik sunset 2dubrovnik sunset 3dubrovnik sunset 4dubrovnik sunset 5

The next day, after a partially restless hostel night, I took the same route into the old town as I had before my wall walk. The walk snakes along the headland, and the sea, like the rest of Croatia, was crystal clear. Taking it slow and with little on my agenda for the day, it felt like paradise. That is until you see the walls. The stunning expanse of medieval stonework ahead and yet all I could see and hear were tourist boards trying to lure me onto a Game of Thrones tour. The show is alright but I don’t need to see which wall features in season 2 episode 6. This represents one of the downs of Dubrovnik. It is way too touristy. I’m not normally one to moan about tourists – I am one – but it was too much. I wish I’d had the chance to experience this stunning place before Game of Thrones exploded. It has made everything more expensive here and transformed most of this town into a museum, not a living, working city.

dubrovnik walk sea 1dubrovnik walk sea 2dubrovnik walk sea 3

When I broke through and made my way inside the city walls, I simply wandered for a while. I found that there wasn’t a huge list of things to do in Dubrovnik, but there is a lot to see. I walked up and down the main streets, observing street performers, munching on burek and gazing up at the beautiful buildings lining the cobbles. I then strayed away from the crowds down the quieter passages around the old town, finding places that were only mine for a moment or two. These were my favourite parts. In these back alleys and hidden courtyards, I found a simple Croatian old town where people lived and I loved.

dubrovnik old town 1dubrovnik old town 2dubrovnik old town 3dubrovnik old town 4dubrovnik old town 5dubrovnik old town 6dubrovnik old town 7

After a successful morning discovering Dubrovnik’s secrets I headed back to my hostel, frankly, to get out of the heat. I ended up meeting some lovely people and we all headed to a local beach to finally get in those crystal waters. It was dreamy and much needed.

dubrovnik beach 1dubrovnik beach 2

This day, which was actually my last full day in Croatia, ended perfectly. This wonderful country gave me a fantastic send off. I accidentally timed my stay in Dubrovnik with the start of their summer festival which meant I got to spend my last night there with food, friends and fireworks on the beach. It was a stunning display and I felt 100% happy.

dubrovnik fireworks

For my last morning in Dubrovnik before I headed over the border to Montenegro I took the boat to Lokrum Island. Even though it cost more than I would’ve liked, I did think it was worth it. The island is a quiet paradise away from the bustle of the old town and has a lot of hidden gems to discover. As the last thing I did in the city, it was a huge high!

dubrovnik lokrum 1dubrovnik lokrum 2dubrovnik lokrum 3dubrovnik lokrum 4dubrovnik lokrum 5dubrovnik lokrum 6dubrovnik lokrum 7dubrovnik lokrum 8

So there you have Dubrovnik. I had a really lovely time in this city with many highs to end my trip in Croatia. The few lows I experienced were mainly due to the sheer volume of tourists and expense of everything within the walls! Having said that, it’s touristy for a very good reason and I’m glad I went. In the future, July might not be the best time to visit.

That’s my last post on Croatia for a while, I’ll be moving onto Montenegro next. Even though I got back to the UK about a month and a half ago, I still want to post letters about all of the amazing places I visited, so stay tuned!

If you want to read about the rest of my Croatia trip, here are the links:

BUDAPEST, ZAGREB, PLITVICE AND PULA  |  Romantic Rovinj  |  Zadar: hiking to an abandoned fortress  |  The most underrated Croatian city: Šibenik  |  Krka or Plitvice?  |  A snippet of Split  |  Island escapes: Brač and Korčula

Thanks for reading!

From Lou

dubrovnik game of thrones

I don’t even like Game of Thrones

About Me

Island escapes: Brač and Korčula

Letter 108

Island hopping on an organised sail trip is very popular in Croatia, but you can also do it on your own. As I was pushed for time at the end of my stint in Croatia I went from Split to Brač and then over to Korčula before Dubrovnik. I liked this little route however I did miss out the most popular island Hvar for similar reasons that I didn’t stay in Split. (You can read about that here). So let me tell you about these Adriatic gems!

 

Brač

Out of the two, Brač was my favourite. Immediately I felt at home on this charming island and that may be due to the wonderful Croatian family I stayed with. The hostel they own was virtually empty so I had a lovely dorm with a balcony to myself and they even invited me to join them for dinner. It was a great place to spend a few days, and I wanted to stay longer. The hostel was called Central Studio Apartments.

I had two pretty full days there but could’ve spent a week. On the first day I took a 6km walk around the coast to Splitska. This is a sleepy harbour town with very little tourism and a perfect place to relax. On the way I passed a number of quiet bays and stopped off at the nearest one to the town, where I had a part of the beach all to myself. On the way back I stopped at the others. This pretty much took me the whole day but when I returned to Supetar (largest town on the island, and connected to Split via ferries) I had a wander round and headed up the tower for the sunset. It was the first day I’d had to myself in a while and I enjoyed it so much.

brac supetar 1brac supetar 2brac supetar 3brac supetar 5brac splitska 1brac supetar 4brac supetar 7brac supetar 8brac supetar 9

The next day was also my last day (thanks to 2 night quick stays), so my main job was to get to the other side of the island where my catamaran would depart from. Bol is the side of the island near the famous beach of Zlatni Rat so I decided to get a bus in the morning to Bol, accompanied by my backpack, and spend the day on the beach before catching my ride to Korčula. Luckily, a nice guy in a tourist information centre let me leave my bag with him and head off to relax on the stunning beach. As a last image of Brač, it was a nice one, although I have to say I preferred my empty beaches of the previous day. Brač was a pretty special place and I was pleased to have some alone time here enjoying the beauty of this gem. If I went again I’d do the hike Vidova Gora which is the highest peak amongst the islands. Definitely on my list to return!

brac bol 1brac bol 2brac bol 3brac bol 4brac bol 5brac bol 6

 

Korčula

I arrived in Korčula pretty late to a largely empty hostel again which, after nearly a week by myself, I was a bit disappointed with. The hostel wasn’t the greatest which also tainted my time there. However, it’s a very pretty island with a charming town, sparkling beaches and inland hills and vineyards to offer, but without a car it can be difficult to reach these things. I managed a walk up to a village and then down to some beaches, stopping off in a nature reserve, and then back over to the old town. It was pretty stifling in the heat, but had great views and a glorious dip in the sea at the end.

korcula 1korcula 2korcula 3korcula 4korcula 5korcula 6korcula 7korcula 8korcula 9korcula 10

 

So there you have it, two Dalmatian islands to escape to from the bustling cities on Croatia’s coast. If you’re in the country you have to get to at least one island, I recommend Brac personally but both are beautiful and the others are equally desirable. Of course Hvar is the most famous and busiest, but I skipped it. One I really would’ve like to visit is Mljet which I’ve heard is stunning!

Just a quick note – I am way behind on the letters, I am currently 10 days into my Montenegrin stay and leaving in just under a week! I’ll catch up soon!

Happy Travels!

From Lou

About Me

A snippet of Split

Letter 107

For me Split wasn’t a number one place on my list to visit, however I did spend one day there. From Šibenik it was only an hour and a half away so I left early, spent most of the day in Split and then headed off to the islands later in the afternoon. I felt like this was actually enough to see the city, and I wasn’t interested in paying a premium to stay there just to party. So anyway, here is a snippet of Split…

split town 1split town 2split town 3split town 4split town 5

Walking around the winding streets of the old town doesn’t take long. In addition to this you can head down and check out the underground palace and then wander along the waterfront (if you can stand the smell). The thing I actually enjoyed most was walking up the hill in Marjan Park and getting fantastic views across the whole area. There’s also a beach you can get to from here but I didn’t venture that far.

split marjan 1split marjan 2split marjan 3split marjan 4split marjan 5

Split is nice – you can see that from the photos – but I am glad I decided not to stay there. Like most places in Croatia, it is doable in a day, but Split is just extra touristy and expensive. I believe a quick stop off is the best way to do it.

What are your thoughts on Split?

Happy Travels!

From Lou

About Me

 

PS. I stored my luggage for about 6 hours very near the bus station and it cost me about £2.

Krka or Plitvice?

Letter 106

The two main national parks in Croatia are Krka, known primarily for the giant waterfall you can swim in, and Plitvice, known for the bright blue lakes and winding footpaths. As I’ve now visited both, I thought I’d weigh in on the subject. I’ve already written about Plitvice here, so this will mainly be focused on Krka and my thoughts on which park I preferred and why.

I stayed in Šibenik because it was within easy reach of Krka, being only a 45 minute bus ride away. The bus took me to Skradin (which was actually my first preference to stay but there were no hostels – and I’m quite thankful for that now because I loved Šibenik – read the letter about Šibenik here), and then I had to get a boat over to the park. The boat ride was beautiful and peaceful and then we arrived right in the thick of the action. Straight away you are dropped amongst the sun-worshippers and bathers under the famous waterfall. Honestly, my first impression was that it was very very busy, over-touristy and not very natural at all. Having said that, the waterfall was impressive, the water was milky blue and beautiful and I could see it’s charm and why it attracts these masses of people.

krka boat ride 1krka boat ride 3krka boat ride 2krka waterfall 1krka waterfall 2

I decided to first of all go for a walk around the park. I followed the crowds more than the trails because they weren’t that clear. I was told there was only one route around the park but I came to a ‘junction’ many times and just chose one way or another. The walk was busy and only took about an hour which disappointed me because I would’ve liked to have seen more. What I did see were lots of waterfalls cascading into one another, sharp reflections of the nature in the water and lots of bright blue clear pools, like I had seen in Plitvice.

krka walk 1krka walk 2krka walk 3krka walk 4

After the walk I spent the rest of the day swimming and lounging on the grass next to the waterfall. It was quite peaceful despite the hoards of people swarming everywhere. I didn’t do much swimming near the waterfall and instead went under the bridge to the other side which was quieter and deeper. I actually wish I’d done some research and figured out what else I could’ve done, like go to the island with the church on it. Forgive me, I don’t know the name. I think it’s possible to explore more of the park with a bike or, better still, a car. It was a nice relaxing day though.

krka 1

I managed to get the photo featuring very few people earlier in the day – by the afternoon it was packed with people either swimming or sunbathing.

So, which is better? I would say, based on my experiences, Plitvice. The sheer amount of people in Krka really put me off and it felt far too much like any old tourist attraction rather than a natural park. This may have been to do with timing as I stayed overnight very near the Plitvice Lakes which meant we started walking at 9 and finished at 1, whereas in Krka I started at 10:30. The length of the walk in Plitvice was also much more desirable for me. It felt like a decent walk where I explored a large area, but in Krka it was too short and not much information was given. I think this is because the majority of people just want to swim. Even with aesthetics, I think Plitvice is just prettier. I would love to return to Plitvice out of season and see it dressed in Autumnal oranges or even covered in snow.

Both are worth a visit – Croatia really does have some of the most stunning nature I’ve ever seen! Try to avoid July and August though because the prices shoot up as I discovered in Krka. I would always advise to try and stay nearby and start your day trip as early as possible to beat the crowds. I believe any place is nicer when you remove half of the people.

If you’ve been, which one was your favourite?

Hope this was helpful!

From Lou

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